Buck Island to Beaufort NC

—Blogpost written by Bob

Buck Island to Alligator River

We weighed anchor at 7:45 AM (Monday, October 28, 2019) from near MM 57. The anchor and chain were covered with black slimy mud like typically found in the Chesapeake Bay. We had a swarm of mayflies in the cockpit enclosure when I started the engine for the day. By 9:45 AM we were already in the Abermarle Sound, starting the 12-mile crossing. We had a slight wind from behind but not enough to sail and to make our day’s destination just north of the Alligator River-Pungo River canal. The number of boats crossing the Abermarle with us looked like an armada.

Looking back into the wind as we
crossed the Abermarle Sound.

The weather was very pleasant. We were wearing short-sleeved t-shirts and jeans. As the day progressed the wind increased significantly. When we entered the Alligator River we had to turn broadside to the wind and waves. One of our folding bikes fell out of the quarter berth and onto the teak floor due to the boat’s heavy roll to the starboard side.  We arrived at the entrance marker for the Alligator River at 10:45 AM.  For such as large river you wouldn't think that the entrance would be as circuitous as it is.

The Abermarle Sound is the uppermost body of water
while the Alligator River is on the bottom.  Note
the circuitous entrance to the Alligator River.

We got through the Alligator River Swing Bridge with no delay whatsoever. I had allowed an extra day in our travel plan because of issues with this bridge earlier in the season.

From the mouth of the Alligator River to our anchorage was 22.2 miles. We could have (and should have) sailed this leg of our day’s trip because we had plenty of wind, lots of wide open water, and no time constraints. (I’ve made a note of this for next season.)

We anchored at 2 PM near MM 105–we were the first boat in a relatively popular anchorage spot. Many boats continued into the 20-mile long Alligator River-Pungo River Canal even though it was getting late in the afternoon to be starting this long of a leg. As early as 3:15 PM other boats joined us at the anchorage. By nightfall, nearly a dozen boats had anchored near us.

There was no cell service in this anchorage (we need this for weather forecasts) but we were able to get plenty of TV stations, just not major networks for good news and weather coverage.

Today we traveled approximately 44.3 statute miles in 6.25 hours for an average boat speed of 7.08 miles per hour (6.15 knots).

Alligator River to Goose Creek

Our sleep was very pleasant last night with the decreased wind conditions and mild temperature.

The sky prior to sunrise from
our Alligator River anchorage.

Before starting out, I tried to switch our distance units on our chart plotter from nautical miles to statute miles and our speed units from knots to mph but the chart plotter would not accept my instruction for some strange reason.  It would switch momentarily and then immediately switch back.

We decided to get moving early and have breakfast underway. We pulled up our anchor at 7:45 AM (Tuesday, October 29, 2019) and immediately proceeded into the 23-mile long (and very boring) Alligator River-Pungo River Canal. (I say “very boring” because there is not much to see and it is nearly a straight line!)  The water depth was between 14 and 17 feet throughout.

We each made our own breakfasts during our off shifts. We were taking 1-hour shifts at the helm through the canal. We’ve been changing up our breakfasts from day to day—this morning, I decided to have oatmeal, which I have not had in a long time.

There are two (high) bridges that cross the canal—one near the middle and the other near the (believe it or not) western end. (The canal doesn’t run north and south.)

This old Morgan Out Island has been moored
along the Alligator River-Pungo River
canal for at least the past 4 years.

By 11 AM we came to the end of the canal and the temperature was a balmy 72 degrees. We opened most of the side windows on our cockpit enclosure. We motored the full 17-mile length of the Pungo River. Then we diagonally crossed the Pimlico River, a 4-mile leg, and into Goose Creek where we planned to anchor for the night.

We’ve anchored at this location twice previously—once on October 17, 2016 and on April 10, 2019.  After we got settled in our Goose Creek anchorage, I again tried to reset the units on the chart plotter. After turning the unit off and then back on again, it worked. I also made a small adjustment to the autopilot sensitivity, correcting it to a speed of 6 knots (from its original setting of 12 knots)—I hope this helps. It was already set to “performance” mode—so, I couldn’t gain anything in the mode settings. (What I’m trying to correct for is a wavering of +/- 5 degrees in heading. My previous autopilot had more sensitivity control than my current one. If any reader knows another way to correct this, I’d greatly appreciate your commenting on this blogpost.)

We traveled 41.4 statute miles today in 6.5 hours for and average speed of 6.4 mph (5.56 knots).

Goose Creek to Cedar Creek

The wind really kicked up last night after a brief rain shower. I got up out of bed and installed the anchor bridle (some call it a snubber) which allowed the boat to ride the wind-caused waves a lot easier. I slept very soundly afterward. (We made a note on our flip chart to anchor further into the creek for better protection next time.)

I removed the anchor bridle in the morning before departing. As I put my foot on the “up” button, our trusty windlass lifted the anchor at 8 AM and we quickly got back onto the ICW, heading further South. We had warm quiche for breakfast while underway.

This was our view looking south from
our Goose Creek anchorage.

We went through the creek (similar to a canal) for the first 10 or 12 miles, passing Hobucken NC. Before 10 AM we were motor-sailing on the Neuse River with 15 miles of relatively open water ahead of us. The wind was blowing at 11.5 knots from the East and we were moving southerly at about 7 knots.

A shrimp boat dragging its nets
on the Neuse River.

Line hooks forward of our
port cockpit cushion.

Lola doesn't care if we are on the
Neuse River or somewhere else.

We anchored in Cedar Creek (off Adams Creek) near MM 187 at 1 PM on Wednesday, October 30, 2019.  By this time the sun came out and it was nice and warm.  A breeze of 8 to 10 knots was blowing out of the northeast.  We anchored in 7.5 feet of water about 800 feet northeast of day mark # G9. (We tried to anchor in this spot before but turned away because we thought it was too shallow.)  One other sailboat was already anchored here and one more came in (and went in a little further) while I was hosing down mayfly carnage in the cockpit.  Eventually there were 5 boats in this anchorage.

Today was an easy day--no bridges and mostly open water.  We traveled 36 statute miles in 5 hours for an average speed of 7.2 mph (6.26 knots).  Tomorrow we have an easy 1/2-day run to Beaufort where we will be staying for 3 nights.

Cedar Creek to Beaufort

We got underway at 8 AM on Thursday, October 31, 2019 (Halloween) and got back onto the ICW toward Beaufort.  It was a nice warm morning in the mid to upper 70's.  

This sailboat was sunken at this spot the last
time we passed by here.  I wonder who
is responsible for disposal?

This sunken shrimp boat is a
relatively new casualty.

We arrived at Beaufort Docks at 10:30 AM and almost immediately used the marina's nice hot showers.  After our showers we had delicious lunch at Black Sheep right on the waterfront.

It actually felt hot in Beaufort--it was 80 degrees!  We turned on our air conditioner to cool the boat's interior down.

We'll be here in Beaufort NC for three nights--so, there is much more to come...


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