Green Turtle Cay

Mar 7 & Mar 8

--Blogpost written by Bob

Wednesday, March 7

There was quite a change in the wind this morning—12 to 15 knots out of the southwest. The wind is causing a textured surface on the water which makes it appear darker. The sun is on its normal ascent into the cloud-free sky. It’s a bit cooler than it has been lately.

Today is my birthday. I can’t believe I’m as old as I am. In my mind, I’m still young. I’m wiser now, maybe not any more intelligent. My body doesn’t always function like my young body did but I can still walk, see where I’m walking (without glasses, by the way), and, more important, know where I am at any given time. It’s funny that my taste preferences haven’t changed over the years—I keep adding new ones but the old ones never go away. I believe I’m now living my life to the fullest which is the most I (or anyone) can expect at any age. So, for me, today is just another day in paradise...

After a delicious breakfast on board (Maggie’s low-carb quiche), we got in the dinghy, rode into the public dock near our mooring, and, then, walked eastward toward the beach at Gillam Bay.  I'll let my photographs tell the rest of the story...

Our first view of Gillam Bay from the
trail leading to the beach.

A driftwood stump along the beach at Gillam Bay.

Fallen trees along the beach represent the
natural undeveloped state.

Homes along the western shore of Gillam Bay.

This area on the south side of the peninsula encompassing
Gillam Bay is actually on the Sea of Abaco.  It is
covered with water at high tide and dry
at low tide (as shown above).

This mask, hand painted on a palm branch and
mounted on an old tree that marks the way to
the beach, lends a mysterious air about.

Throughout the entire time we walked the beach (about 2 miles long), we saw only four other people, also walking along the beach exploring.  

We came back to the boat and had lunch on board (pizza!) and then we read and relaxed.  Jonathon and Marion came by and invited us over for happy hour on their boat this evening. 

After such a long beach walk this morning and a belly full of pizza, I decided to take an afternoon nap.  Of course, I had to share the v-berth with Lizzie, our Maine Coon cat.

Even though she was here first, she decided
to share the v-berth with me.

A brief rain shower came through the mooring field in the early afternoon but quickly dissipated.

Well, after all the invitations to attend my second annual 70th birthday party at Pineapple's, I was a no show!  We had happy hour on Eleuthera II and then came back to the boat and read a little before retiring for the night.  We skipped dinner because we really weren't hungry.

Thursday, March 8

The sunrise over Black Sound was spectacular this morning, owing most of its beauty to the cloud formations to the east. It is quite windy this morning, making 13 (occasionally gusting to 18) knots on our wind speed indicator out of the northwest. When the gust hits, the boat jerks in a slightly different direction and the favored mooring line creaks as it stretches before the load shifts to both lines.

Sunrise over Black Sound on March 8
was spectacular!

Like many early mornings lately, I’m listening to Chris Parker’s weather broadcast. I like the terms, like frontal weather trough, reinforcing cold front, and merging frontal boundaries, that describe the local atmospheric conditions.  As an ex-cruiser, Chris adds a level of experience and practicality not found in other weather forecasts.  The weather forecast for the Bahamas typically follows the forecast and radio discussions for the Caribbean—and finally, the forecast for Gulf Stream crossings is last.

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Green Turtle Cay is three miles long (roughly north to south) and 1/2 mile wide (roughly east to west). The cay was named after green turtles that once inhabited the area. The original settlement on Green Turtle Cay is called New Plymouth and it is located on the southeast corner of the cay, with its public dock on the Sea of Abaco. The only way to get onto the cay is by ferry or private boat.

The welcome sign as you enter New Plymouth
by road from the north.

The older homes in the settlement have steep roofs and dormers common in New England where the original settlers came from in 1789 (according to the sign along the road entering the settlement from the north).

The end of Parliament Street is at the
public dock on the Sea of Abaco.

Today’s population is less than 500 and one can walk from one end of the settlement to the other end in less than 15 minutes, although there are enough distractions that you probably wouldn’t. New home construction (mainly second homes for wealthy Americans and Canadians) is located mainly on the northern end of the island and along the ocean beach. (There is plenty of space available for more new home construction in the years ahead but I hope it doesn’t happen and ruin the beautiful nature of this cay.)

There are three small grocery stores in New Plymouth: Lowe’s, Sid’s, and Curry’s. The cay also has two hardware stores and a couple liquor stores besides several bars, restaurants, and gift shops.

One of the many abandoned homes
in New Plymouth.

There are a dozen or more old homes in New Plymouth that are abandoned, boarded up, or in a completely ruinous state—one of them was even a waterfront home. (Photographs of many of these abandoned homes appear in my previous blogposts.)  When I asked about the reason I found out that in many cases people died in their homes and their descendants weren't interested in the properties--so, they sit unattended until they fall down.  Then someone salvages the scrap wood but the foundation and cistern sit there forever.  (Bahamians pay no property tax and there is some aspect of the law that makes it difficult to pass down a home and sell it.)

There are two major resorts on the cay: Bluff House and The Green Turtle Club, both on the shores of White Sound.  Most of the tourism business comes from these two resorts and private yachts moored in White Sound and Black Sound. (This cay is a common stopping point for yachts heading southward through the Whale Cay Passage.)

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Because of all the photographs in this blogpost, I am calling this one at the end.  I should note that today was my mother's birthday (the day after mine).  She passed away at age 55.

In our next blogpost, we will explore the recipes for a Goombay Smash since we are in the place where it was invented.  Stay tuned...


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